L'ultima settimana e la rimpatriata

I'm sorry that it's taken so long for me to make my final post. Returning has been busier than I expected, but before I get to the homecoming let me fill you in on my last week.

I had a fantastic time during my final days in Italy and met a multitude of people while I was traveling alone. Because I can't do anything that isn't exciting, I nearly missed my bus in Sansepolcro. Thankfully, Bekah was a helpful guide and got me there just in time. At the end of my very long day of traveling (I started at 8:00 am and arrived at my destination at 10:00 pm!) I grew to believe that the trains in Italy might be one of my favorite place! I shared my music with Marco on the second leg of my journey to Rome and had an entertaining conversation with a brother and sister to Sibari. I consider myself very lucky to have such great company on the long trip.

But when I got to Sibari I was finally able to meet my cousin Gianna and the rest of the family! Unfortunately I didn't get to spend nearly as much time as I would've liked, but the time there was fantastic. We stayed at their beach house which was a 5 minute walk from the most beautiful spiaggia I have ever visited. There were no waves at all, a phenomenon that made the water look more like a big lake then part of the sea, and the water was a refreshing temperature, neither too hot or cold. Gianna was very patient with my elementary Italian skills and often our conversations were heterogeneously mixed with Italian and English words. She took me to Terranova da Sibari, la patria of my father's maternal family. Here are a few pictures including the house where my great, great-grandparents lived.




When the day came that I had to return, Gianna and her mother made a big lunch for all of us and I was on the 3:oo pm bus to Rome. We got there at 10:00 pm, I took the hour-long train to my airport and I waited...and waited...AND WAITED. At 5:00 am I found out that my flight had been canceled due to uno sciopero (a strike) and was reassigned to a direct flight that left at 12:45 pm. Oh, the joys of travel! When I arrived in the Atlanta airport--yes, I still had 5 hours left to travel back home!--I found out that my luggage was left behind in Rome. All of these unlucky events on the trip home made getting there so much sweeter. But I'm already missing Italy a little which, I hope you'd admit, would be easy to do after such a great trip. Grazie mille for following i miei viaggi and I hope to catch up with you soon!

Vado in avanti da Siena!

Well, I'm through with Siena...for now. I loved my time there and seriously suggest that you get there if you have a chance. I'm just sorry that I have to leave now that I finally feel like I'm getting used to things. Saying goodbye to my friends and (host) family was hard, too. Thankfully we had time to visit at a final dinner at Lavinia and Antonio's house with outstanding food, of course! Here's a picture of the group.

But no matter because I'm off to other adventures. As a matter of fact, I am using a computer at an internet point in Sansepolcro! I am here visiting my friend Bekah that also attends Meredith College. Since we were Italian study partners last year, it's really been a pleasure to catch up with her. She is nannying for a gorgeous and highly entertaining famiglia. Sara and Patrizio have been so wonderful to open their home to me. Last night, we had a great dinner with Sara's parents, sister, and the three fantastic children--Leonardo, Ginevra, and Veronica. Tomorrow I am finally going to meet my cousin Gianna and couldn't be more happy! The ride to Terranova da Sibari is going to be a bit long, but I am so excited. I can't believe that I'm coming home soon, but miss air conditioning and soft towels. I was just wondering the other day if I will remember how to ride a car after walking everywhere. Vediamo!

Fun and Firenze!

I can nearly believe that a month is almost gone! Soon I will be off to visit with Gianna and my family in the south of Italy which is very exciting, but I have become very close to those in my small program and do not look forward to the time when we scatter across the world again. Speaking of sad moments, the language intensive students left this weekend.

But on to the good things that have happened! I had another cooking class, this time less professional, but still very tasty. Fiora, one of the teachers, gave us our Italian lesson while leading us through the tricks to making pizza and cantucci. Here’s a picture of me making pizza.

Also, we went to Florence. It’s such a big city! I believe I got used to the size and feeling of Siena so much that Florence was a bit overwhelming. There were tourists EVERYWHERE and I found that I didn’t feel so bad when I didn’t understand what a stranger was saying because it was fairly likely that they weren’t speaking one of the two languages that I know. J

We went to the Uffici for Italian class and Antonella, another teacher, took us around to the most amazing pieces of art and explained them for us—in Italian, of course. I couldn’t believe that I was actually seeing some of the most amazing works of humankind. I loved every second, but can’t get la sala di Botticelli (the Botticelli room) out of my head. Being at the Uffici left me feeling intoxicated and I can honestly say that this part was among the best moments of the month.

A group of us had decided to stay in Florence for the night so we strolled around. First we went to the Duomo. I can’t believe how spectacular it is on the outside, not to mention its tremendous size. The inside isn’t nearly as amazing as the Duomo of Siena (which I visited yesterday), but regardless, it’s beautiful. We moved on to the market that Florence has every Saturday. It was nice to walk through and the characters were very lively. When we were done, we walked with our purchases around the city and chanced our luck with a wild boar statue, saw the Ponte Vecchio, and ambled around what felt like the rest of the city (because we did a LOT of walking in Florence!). I’ve included some pictures of Florence.

I’m starting my last week here in the Study in Siena program. Today was my last day at the clothing distribution. It was awfully sad to leave because I have had a lot of fun, but I did enjoy the opportunity there. But for now I have to go to Italian class, so until next time!

Busy, busy, busy

I'm sorry that it's been so long since my last post. I have limited internet access during the week, none during the weekend, and none when I am not going to classes because I am sick. That's right, I wait all of my life to come to Italy and sono ammalata. But no matter, because I'm obviously better now, which is great because I have my midterm tomorrow (ugh!) and we went to Santa Maria Della Scala today. Santa Maria Della Scala is one of the oldest independent hospitals, if not the oldest, in Europe where the poor would come and receive food and care from monks. I loved the frescoes in the Sala del Pellegrinaio (Pilgrim's Hall) which told the story of how the hospital grew and the daily activities.

But the hot springs were beautiful! It was a spa about 30 minutes outside of Siena with an amazing view. We got there in the early evening right as the day was cooling and the water was a perfect warm temperature so it felt wonderful. The water also had sulfur deposits which proved to be a great exfoliant. Sadly, we had to say good-bye to Kim in the language intensive program that night, but what a last night, huh?

This past weekend I went to Italy's tourist central Cinque Terre with Cathy for a couple of days. It was gorgeous! We spent some time on the beach, hiked around, and relaxed. We stayed in Monterosso al Mare for the first day and had a lot of fun. We went exploring on some trails and found a beautiful church and a cemetery farther up the mountain. It was interesting to translate what was written about the people. Later we went to a dance party at a nearby pub and danced to the mixes of D.J. California which included the Village People and my new favorite song. The next day we woke up early to travel back towards Siena the next day, visiting all of the towns except Corneglia. Cathy and I agreed that our favorite was Vernazza because it had a lot of nice, quaint stores, yet retained a lot of breath-taking views. We took the train from one to the other, but decided to walk the Via Dell'Amore from Manarola to Riomaggiore. Here are some pictures for you to enjoy!

Vestiti e cibi

Things are going well here in Siena. I have Italian class several times a week along with my class on Immigration and Social Change. All of this stuff is so interesting! I found out that we are going to the hot springs Friday evening for our reflection class, which should be lots of fun. I'll give you an update about that at the beginning of next week.

I am really enjoying my service placement at the clothing distribution site. The people that I work with are fantastic and everyone that comes to get clothes are very appreciative. I feel like this opportunity has been among the most rewarding and humbling of my life thus far. I constantly feel like I am getting to see what Italy really looks like all of the time, instead of just seeing it through the eyes of a tourist.

But I do have a fantastic update! Lunedi, the group had our own cooking class and it was so much fun. We handmade pappa col pomodoro, zuppa, peci, gnocchi, e tiramasu' and ate it all! I wasn't so great with the peci, but am a gnocchi-making machine. We got le recette so I plan on trying again when I get home, but I am not so sure that any of it will taste as great as it did here.

But now, I'm off to the market with la mia amica Cathy to do some homework...and maybe find a sale or two.

Una settimana intensa

I’m so sorry that I haven’t been able to post in a while. The Palio took over life here in Siena; it was all day, everyday. And then there was the party, homework, a trip, but I’ll explain all of that in time. First the Palio. Someone said that it is like being “at the center of the world,” and quite honestly, there is no other way to describe the events of la citta’. Since my last post our IPSL group and the Language and Culture group (made up of 4 others) got the great privilege to attend a contrada dinner. As contradas are the smaller, tightly knit communities of Siena, it is rare that “outsiders” as we are receive such a chance to make our way inside an exciting time for the contrada. Antonio lead us into the Nicchio dinner where singing, cheering, food, and replenishing wine filled the streets among hundreds of people. The meal was prepared and served entirely by members of the contrada. What an experience to be in the middle of a pep rally unlike that which could be replicated nelgli stati uniti!

Then the next day was the day of the race. We tried to watch the blessing of the horse, but only had the chance to see the horse being lead into the church since la piccolo chiesa couldn’t fit all of us. “Go little horse and return a winner,” the priest tells the horse and a benediction is given to the horse and the jockey showing the mixture of holy and secular. Later was a parade which made me feel as if I was caught in a medieval century; the costumes were so colorful and I could only imagine what it was like walking around in the extreme heat wearing wool stockings or armor.

And finally, it was time for the Palio! Thousands of people poured into the Piazza Del Campo all waiting in anticipation. It is true what they say that the feeling of being there is truly indescribable. The tension of the piazza is nearly tangible. My own heart was racing and my breath was short when the actual Palio was brought in. The Palio is a banner with representation of the Holy Mary, a horse, and the 10 racing contradas on it. This year the mayor commissioned an artist to also honor the nuns that I am working with at the clothing distribution and soup kitchen. Although there was a great deal of inexperience between the jockeys and the horses, the race only took 45 minutes to start—and was over in about two!

I felt like I shared the pain of the Nicchio contrada when our jockey fell off in the infamous San Martino turn on the first lap, but it didn’t matter. The most experienced jockey was teamed with the decent Istrice (Porcupine) horse and when we saw them pull out at the starting line, there was never a chance for anyone else. The Torre (Tower) came closest, but alas Istrice pulled it out as predicted. At the end of the race, Istrice erupted in joy. People were crying all over—some in joy and others in despair. There was nothing but chaos all around. The Istrice paraded with the Palio, were blessed at San Provenzano with “new life” in a spiritual sense (which they display by wearing pacifiers for a week), and immediately the partying began. It appeared as if the Istrice contrada had multiplied several times over, but I am told that they are one of the biggest contradas of Siena. I was able to enter the church which is normally closed to the public and although I didn’t indulge on this night, the winners were handing out free wine to EVERYONE!

Now that the July Palio is over it is time to begin preparation for the next one. I wasn't able to get to the Piazza Del Campo, but watched the picking of the final three racing contradas in the August Palio on televison with my roommate Kelly and Luciana, my host mother. Nicchio didn't race last year so they have another chance to win, and my poor host father was a bit upset when his Lupa (Wolf) contrada didn't make it in...Again!

But the end of the July Palio did usher a regular schedule with classes and homework for us. Italian class is rough but I do want to learn, so what’s better than a challenge? I really love my Immigration and Social Change class. There are only three of us in it and we have professor who seems to know her stuff. We are really forced to look at the best and worst of what Italy has to offer in this program. And as if I didn’t know how to do this from my classes at Meredith College J, we are reflecting with our journal entries in another class. This may be one of my favorite parts, because I love hearing other peoples’ perceptions of something we did together or learning from an experience that I haven't had.

But don’t worry, because it’s not all work here. Friday and Saturday we went with the Language and Culture group to the coast. We learned that large groups of people is an attribute of an Italian beach, but it was wonderful nuotare (to swim) in the refreshing waters of the Mediterranean after a week of facing the worst of the summer. We visited the quaint beach towns, ate the best gelato, and had lots of fun. On the rough roads home, which were far, far worst than anything I’ve experienced in the mountains of North Carolina, we stopped in San Galgano. There is a sword in the stone dating in the 1200s for those who wish to believe the legend and the skeleton of a beautiful church with enough stories of its own. I took lots of pictures and some of the best are below. For now, I need to get back to work, but I hope you’re all doing well. You’re in my thoughts.

Sono al inzio.

I have seen the first of the Palio events. Today 33 horses ran around the mud-packed piazza for 10 spots. Cannons went off to signal 5 or 6 cavelli for a heat. They mock run and the captains of the competing contradas watch for the best horses making a list for later. The captains meet to choose the 10 all-important horses and a few hours later they are paired with a contrada by chance. Two children pick balls from a lottery and the Piazza Del Campo either explodes with excitement or sighs with exasperation depending on the skill of the horse. Here is a picture of the best horse of the group which went to the lucky Selva (or Forest) contrada, which my host mother is a part of. Needless to say, she is very excited about this year.


The contradas will also be looking for the best, most experienced jockeys to compete for honor...e molti soldi. Last night I also got to watch la prima prova, or the first trial race. It was amazing. The competing contradas come in their groups singing songs with gusto to show that they are united and ready to win. The horses are difficult to control in a place filled with people singing and shouting, but it's necessary to get the race started. Our inside man Antonio is in the Nicchio (Shell) contrada. He got us tickets to all of the most important events that are coming up on Tuesday and is kindly answering my incessant questioning. But unfortunately, right now it doesn't look like Nicchio has such a great horse and we're all a little worried about that. Anyway, immediately after the race is over the contradas storm the track to receive their horse and sing for the rest of the Piazza Del Campo as they leave. Here's a video of it, but make sure to turn up the volume so you can hear them sing their sweet little militaristic hearts out.



This morning I also started my service. I've been placed in the clothing distribution site for local immigrants. The room is so small and it seems that there is always a lot of work to do. I started at 8:30 when it opened and didn't stop until it closed at 11. The people that I'm working with are nice, but again, don't speak any English. My ear is getting used to the Italian, but my brain is taking a little longer. I'm able to understand enough to get by, but sometimes I'm still lost, but that shouldn't be a surprise to anyone. Basically, we go through the clothes that are donated and throw out the ratty and stained clothes, but at the same time people are filling bags to the brim. The time went by so quickly, but everything is pretty hectic. The room is small--about 12 x 12--and the perimeter is just shelves filled with clothes and there's a big table in the middle leaving about 4 feet around. There are anywhere between 5-7 people in there at a time all grabbing and shifting. There is a window but everyone's sweating and the body odor can get really overwhelming. Did I mention that it is in the 90s these days? This morning at 7:15 it was already 86 degrees. Fun stuff!

But that's enough for now. I have to get on to my first Italian class which I've been looking forward to, but I can tell now that it's not going to be pretty. Later is the second trial race and probably homework. Hope all is well!